Day Trip to Ostia Antica

After 5 days in Rome, I decided to leave the city and see a different part of Italy. Alas time and my pocket-book would not permit a trip to Florence, Pompeii, nor Venice, so I decided to go to Ostia Antica, the harbour city of ancient Rome.

Ostia Antica is a large archaeological and nature park. Getting there was not too much trouble. I took the metro to Piramide and boarded the Roma-Lido train to Ostia Antica. 3 km further would have taken me to the beach town of Lido di Ostia. But sunbathing or wading in the sea was not part of my plan for this day.

The day was such a pleasure compared to the rains of the day before and the ruins were beautifully preserved. Walking through town, it was easy to imagine seeing the town as it was in its heyday.

The Necropolis (Greek = town of the dead) was located outside of town as was the custom back then. You can see remnants of the tombs. I loved the greenery. I especially loved seeing palm trees in Italy.

The Decumanus is one of the major roads of the town. These are the original stones. There is a well on the Decumanus and along the road are gratings through which you can see the lead pipes that transported water into town. Talk about urban planning. This ancient town was really well laid out.

The marble slab is just outside the town walls and was built in the 1st century BC.

Immediately inside the town walls is Piazzale della Vittoria where it is supposed men coming from Rome would have stopped for refreshments.

This is a mosaic in the Terme dei Cisarii (bathhouse of chariots?). It dates back to the 1st century AD.

Another beautiful mosaic going back to 40 AD. Can you believe that?

I want to say that the picture below is that of the Terme di Nettuno, but I don’t remember. It is another bathhouse. I love the green of the tree-tops against the sky blue background.

I came across a sarcophagus in the Christian Oratory. I can only imagine it belonged to someone who was later granted sainthood.

Temporary jolt to reality! Just outside the theatre there were cigarette butts. Sigh. Why do people smoke?

I entered the town’s theatre. Some of the seating area was reconstructed in the 1940s. I sat here for a while and imagined a play going on down there. Would it be too much if I said that tears of laughter trickled down my face?

From the theatre I went to the Forum delle Corporazioni where the important people of the town had their businesses and offices. A replica of the Ara dei Gemelli which is dedicated to the god of nature and forests is seen here. The original is in the Roman National Museum of Palazzo Massimo.

Walking further along, I came across the Mithraeum dei Serpenti (cult temple of Mithras). I will admit that I know nothing about Mithraism. Mithras is the soldier’s god and the snake represents the earth is about all I learnt.

There is also a Christian Basilica and a Jewish Synagogue in the town.

I would have to say that one of my favourite places in the town of Ostia Antica is the Thermopolium which is basically the fast food joint! It was built in the 3rd century AD. Inside there is a wall painting of fruits and musical instruments behind a marble counter. I imagined placing my order here. Then I imagined taking my steaming hot food and cold drink over to the side seats where my gang was waiting for me and where we were about to engage in town gossip!

After my imaginary snack break, I walked over to the Forum – the main square of the town. Here I saw the Capitolium Temple which had been built upon earlier buildings. It is dedicated to the god Jupiter and the goddesses Juno and Minerva.

Then I came across what looks like remnants of large pots. I imagine it was the granary or some other food storage area. Or maybe it was the bakery, or the supermarket!

Walking around I came upon a reconstruction of the Temple of the goddess Roma and remnants of the Tempio Rotondo. It’s like Ostio’s very own Pantheon and it was completed in the 4th century AD.

A Lararium in the Casseggiato del Larario

Later on in my walk, I was able to find the mall or at least a bazaar of sorts. Casseggiato del Larario (House of the Lararium) was built around 120 AD. The lararium is supposed to be a shrine of the household gods so I can imagine that there was a large statue in here. It’s as if to welcome you to your shopping experience, I imagine. There was a Taberna of the Fishermen and presumably one for butchers. I can see them getting to work over those marbletops.

After leaving the mall I found myself in the upper class part of town. The houses here definitely have larger floor plans. They also have more impressive looking frescoes gardens within the compounds. Here I came across the Well of the Casa Giardino. It was probably privately owned.

After all this walking, shopping, eating, drinking, and playing what does one need? Yes, a bathroom break of course!

I found the public latrines (forica) inside a shop. They really are public.

Can you imagine hovering over one of those holes next to another person?

“Hey Pesci, how are you? How are the wife and kids? I missed you today at the Forum.” “Ah yah Antonio, you know my shipment came in and you know, I really got to run …” And Antonio shouting after Pesci as he makes his exit, “…wait do you have any leaves/corncobs/cloth..” Ha ha!

Actually what did people use to clean themselves back then? And what actually happened to the waste? Oh!, I tried not to invite my olfactory nerves to my imaginary discovery of Ostia Antica at this moment but it was in vain. All my senses had been super-activated already by this time.

It was a fun day trip.

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